The January Uprising 1863/1864 - Mourning Black Mourning Crossguards

The black mourning kontusz guz is a unique element of the Polish national costume, worn during periods of national mourning, especially during the Partitions, when Poles expressed in this way their opposition to oppression and the memory of lost independence. It became particularly symbolic during and after the January Uprising (1863-1864), when national dress was transformed into a manifestation of patriotism.The black button, like the traditional kontusz button, took the form of an ornamental clasp, but unlike richly decorated silver or gold pieces, it was made of less costly materials or painted black to symbolize mourning. Its simplicity was a deliberate gesture, intended to express solidarity with the nation, modesty and resistance to the partitioners. It was often used in conjunction with black attire, which became popular among the Polish intelligentsia and nobility as a form of expressing rebellion during periods of prohibitions on manifesting patriotism.During the January Uprising, the black kontusz button and mourning clothes became part of the so-called "patriotic fashion." Women and men wore jewelry and accessories in subdued colors, often decorated with national symbols such as eagles or anchors, and men wore simplified kontusze with mourning elements, including black buttons and a kontusz button.Today, the black kontusz button is a rare and extremely valuable historical artifact, reminding us of the dark but hopeful times of the struggle for independence. It symbolizes both mourning and the unyielding will of the Polish people in their quest for freedom.